Mount the body to the lid then the wire from GM+ directly is soldered to the pin (little piece of heat shrink makes the joint look nice if you wish) and wire from GND either soldered onto a solder tag clamped under the mounting nut or, if in the absence of a big enough solder tag, tack solder the wire to the unthreaded portion of the connector body (just to the left of the insulator in your picture). As long as your iron has a little bit of welly you shouldn't heat damage the insulator - tin a spot on the surface, tin the end of the wire then solder the two together.
Works ok when it is finished. Our only issue was getting the IT dept to install the usb drivers on machines!
Excellent. Thank you. I am struggling to find a tag big enough at the moment as when I looked at the other type of connector this has a tag. Unfortunately it won't fit the PET socket. I may wack it onto the flat bit. I have a mains soldering iron (or The Ship Welder as it's affectionately known) so that should do it. I've been using an Antex 25W for the board.
Up to now I have used my own laptop to install and programme the Arduino but yes I forsee a battle when it comes to rolling it onto a school machine.
Have you modified your GM tubes? I am reluctant to do that as our working one is quite new and the iffy one I don't want to upset if I don't have to.
I soldered to the body and it's fine. I found an old tube holder 'just in case' but installed the requisite mod without too much difficulty.
When it comes to irons, 50W or so temperature controlled irons and a selection of tips are good for nearly everything. I use one with a pointed tip for the odd bit of fine surface mount and, at the other end of the scale with a big chisel tip installed, had the job of soldering 200 solder-in 4mm sockets into a panel (one panel each morning for a couple of weeks so I didn't lose my sanity). I do have a 'proper' 400W iron with a 1inch tip if you wish to borrow it